You may think about taking a trip to a place generally headlined for conflict and unrest. Well, I did just that, and it turned out to be one of the most enlightening experiences of my life. American, 36, I’ve just returned from a 10-day journey through Iraq at stops in Baghdad, Babylon, Najaf, Karbala, Nasiriya, Samarra, Mosul, and Erbil. I was traveling with a small group of fellow Americans, a Brit, and an Australian. What we found was a country that, at every turn, defied expectations.

Discovering the Multifaceted Iraq: Safety, Challenges, and Unique Experiences

My group was quite mixed, primarily women of my generation; this time around, we had an Iraqi driver and a mixture of Iraqi and American guides. What was surprising—and I’m supplying the ethos here—by the end of our trip, all of us would have expressed the same view: Iraq was one of the safest countries any of us had ever seen. Yes, it does sound naive, especially given the country’s recent history, but that is the truth as we experienced it.

In Baghdad and Erbil, I had more opportunities to walk around by myself without ever feeling that there was something to be concerned about. The closest thing to that threat was when the crowds became large around me in response to my efforts to speak very simple Arabic. Iraqis were pretty eager simply to engage with one another; most of the time, what they wanted was selfies, which became funny and part of the whole experience that I enjoyed.

This does not mean that the security situation in Iraq is not complex. If anything, during my stay, Iranian drones were launched, which flew over my hotel in the holy city of Shia Muslims, Karbala. It served as a sobering reminder that Iraq belongs to that category of countries ping-ponged between Iran and the West, with missiles launched at it from it, and over it. That tension was palpable but did not translate into a feeling of danger on the streets.

In sharp contrast, Iraqi Kurdistan had a different tale to tell. The 2003 U.S.-led invasion brought along with it an economic boom, this time with a unified Kurdish political leadership, all of whom were previously feuding; the opposite is the case with the south. Sentiments in favor of the United States are very high in Iraqi Kurdistan: 79 percent of adults say they have a favorable opinion of the U.S. leadership, making it the most pro-American place in the Middle East.

What is remarkable here is the relative safety in the Kurdish north. U.S. actions have underpinned Iraqi Kurdistan’s autonomy since the Gulf War and, as such, been a factor in its stability and prosperity. It was evident just last year, in 2022, that 88% of adults in Iraqi Kurdistan shared an opinion of feeling safe walking alone at night, matching that of the low-crime Gulf states and far above those in other parts of Iraq.

It has emerged as a sanctuary for the beleaguered minorities of the country, especially its ancient Christian communities. The Iraqi Christians are estimated to have decreased from 1.5 million before the war to as few as 200,000 today, with about half now living in the Kurdish region. This reputation is reflected in the 84% of people who say their city or area is a good place for ethnic or racial minorities, significantly higher than in any other country in the Middle East.

Economic problems, however, have started to develop in Iraqi Kurdistan. Indeed, the clear economic demarcation that once set the Kurdish region apart from the rest of Iraq is slowly wearing off. Residents’ complaints are now more similar than different about the availability of jobs and satisfaction with what they can buy or do. Reflecting a broader trend: as Iraq proper improves after decades of conflict, the Kurdish north faces an increasingly familiar challenge—that of maintaining its exceptional status.

The political and economic gains in Iraqi Kurdistan will be constantly tested. Shia militias, resurgent Islamic State cells, and Iran have all posed a threat since the defeat of IS in 2017. Economic discontent simmers due to unreliable public services, unemployment, and a perception of corruption. Nevertheless, the region still stands as an island of security—one of really firm partnership with the United States and intra-Kurdish unity.

As I reflect back on my journey, the reactions of friends and family when I announced that I was going to head to Iraq always come to mind: shocked and concerned responses molded with years of news stories about car bombings, ISIS occupation, and violent warfare. Iraq isn’t typically considered part of the American travel radar, but my experience says it should be.

Additional care needs to be taken when traveling to Iraq, especially as an American lady. One also needs to be fully aware of the strained relationship between the two countries to some extent. The Iraqis were wary of my nationality, while some were interested in having an American visitor to their country. Being a woman meant dressing per their strict modest dress code and using respect for cultural norms as one navigated patriarchal society.

Any person who contemplates a visit to Iraq needs to first take stock of their comfort level when it comes to travel risks and cultural differences. Have you traveled outside Western countries before? Are you comfortable being the only woman in a room? Can you handle a bit of ‘roughing it’? Your answers will define whether a trip to Iraq would be for you.

Iraq is not for the faint of heart, but it is an opportunity for the adventurous spirit to be a real explorer. The country is huge and varied, and it gives plenty of opportunities to get off the beaten path. Of course, the risks exist, but they are controllable by preparation and awareness.

Iraq was revelatory in so many ways. What it did for me was alter my perception and open my eyes to the warmth and resilience of its people. From the safety of the country down to the hospitality of the people, unique experiences are awaiting the intrepid traveler. Iraq is a land of contrasts: the scars of war with the promise of peace, antiquity entwined and merged with modern-day complexity. It is one of those places that stays with one long after the return home, a place that should be seen and interviewed beyond headlines.

Navigating the Complexities: Kurdistan’s Unique Position

The autonomous region of Iraqi Kurdistan is a fascinating case study in the broader narrative of Iraq’s recent history. My journey through this region was an eye-opener, revealing the complexities and nuances of a land that has managed to carve out a semblance of stability and prosperity amidst the turmoil that has engulfed much of Iraq.

The Kurdish people have long been known for their resilience and determination to maintain their cultural identity and autonomy. This was evident as I traveled through the cities and mountains of Iraqi Kurdistan, witnessing the pride and sense of community that permeate the region. The 2003 U.S.-led invasion, which brought devastation to other parts of Iraq, had a markedly different impact here. It was a catalyst for economic growth and political unity among Kurdish factions, a stark contrast to the strife and instability elsewhere.

The goodwill towards the United States in Iraqi Kurdistan is palpable. With nearly four in five adults expressing approval of U.S. leadership, the region stands as the most pro-American entity in the Middle East. This sentiment is a testament to the strategic partnership between the U.S. and the Kurdish people, which has been instrumental in fostering the region’s relative safety and prosperity.

Safety is a key aspect of life in Iraqi Kurdistan. The region’s security forces have effectively controlled their borders and dealt with threats, allowing residents to enjoy a level of safety that is on par with low-crime Gulf states. This sense of security is reflected in the high percentage of adults who feel safe walking alone at night. It’s a remarkable achievement, considering the volatile history of the region.

Iraqi Kurdistan has also become a beacon of hope for many of Iraq’s embattled minorities, particularly its ancient Christian communities. The region’s reputation as a safe haven is not just anecdotal; it’s backed by the high percentage of residents who believe their cities are good places for ethnic or racial minorities. This is a significant accomplishment in a region where sectarian conflict has often been the norm.

The economic landscape in Iraqi Kurdistan is changing. The once-clear distinction between the prosperity of the Kurdish region and the rest of Iraq is fading. Residents now face similar challenges regarding job availability and satisfaction with their standard of living. This shift suggests that as Iraq proper recovers from decades of conflict, Iraqi Kurdistan must work harder to maintain its exceptional status.

Not without challenges, the political and economic comebacks in the region test the regional stability since the defeat of IS in 2017 by Shia militias, remnants of Islamic State cells, as well as Iran. Added to this level of complication is the economic dissatisfaction related to unreliable public services, unemployment, and perceived corruption. The strong alliance with the U.S. and internal unity allowed this region to remain a bastion of security despite all odds.

Reflecting on the reactions of friends and family to my travel plans, I realize that the image of Iraq in the American psyche is that of danger and conflict. My personal experiences in Iraqi Kurdistan, however, are those of peace, safety, and an attitude of warm welcomes toward Americans. It is a story that ought to be shared and understood by people who know only the headlines about Iraq.

While one would need to understand the region’s history and the relationship it has with the U.S. to some extent as an American, and more so as a woman, apprehension towards Americans exists; many Kurds are happy to have visitors from America. Respect for modest dress codes and cultural norms is key for any woman visiting the area.

If you are looking forward to visiting Iraqi Kurdistan, then you need to ask yourself what level of risk one is willing to take on when traveling and their comfort with large cultural differences. Have you traveled outside the West already? Are you okay being the only woman in a room? Can you handle some amount of ‘roughing it’? But these are good questions to ask yourself when deciding if another visit to this part of Iraq would be right for you.

Iraqi Kurdistan is an adventurous traveler’s destination. It is a place and a time to be an explorer―off the beaten track, amongst a culture that’s ancient but in formation. While dangers exist, they can be managed through careful planning and awareness of the local situation.

My time in Iraqi Kurdistan was at once enriching and complex. It resists being reduced to any simple description—a legacy of war standing alongside the lexicon of a vibrant, forward-looking society. For bold travelers willing to delve beyond the stereotypes, Iraqi Kurdistan provides a heady mix of history, culture, and natural beauty—a testament to the indomitable spirit of the Kurdish people in their quest for a future rooted in peace and prosperity.

Related posts:
Life in Kurdistan: A Tale of Two Wars?
Is Iraq Safe? Tips From an American Woman Traveling Iraq
Iraqi Kurdistan’s House of Cards Is Collapsing